Number #3 on the India Must See list is a morning on the
Ganges.
I've been asked whether Varanasi (Benares) is too touristy
now and whether a first timer should go somewhere more 'real'. After all, there
are Ghats all over India's rivers so what makes Varanasi so special? Is there a
compelling alternative?
My Answer is This:
I understand that some tourists like to get off the beaten track, not go where
all the other tourists go and on the whole I think that's a fantastic idea. As
you'll see from my number #5 thing on the list, which is to 'keep it real' by
going and deliberately meeting people in villages outside the cities or in an
urban slum if you can't get out of town.
But there are some places which are on must see lists for a
reason this city has been a pilgrimage site for thousands of years. Buddha gave
his first sermon under a tree just on the outskirts of town at Sarnath. Yes,
there are hawkers on the river in the early morning mist, trying to sell you
cheap tat. But hey, that's India and tourism is big business. But it really is
magical, nevertheless. Varanasi has the quintessential Indian vibe. It's not
'so five minutes ago', its 'so five thousand years ago' and still a must see that's
got to be worth something.
My tip: If you
can book ahead enough to get accommodation with a view of the river, you won't
be disappointed. If you don't feel like you're up for mixing with everyone,
just gaze out the window and pretend you're an Indian princess (ok, that's what
I do!).
Oh and a Bonus Tip:
As long as they still have the same chef, do yourself a favour and eat at the
Hotel Haifa. You can find their details in the Lonely Planet. Last time Francis
and I were there, we could bring ourselves to eat anywhere else. Oh. My. Ohhhhh
mmmmmyyyy you’ll be ruined for suburban take away curries though be warned.
You could go somewhere else, but why? Give me Varanasi over
Venice any day of the week!
The pic above is of kids exploring one of the Ghats at
Varanasi which I could take a photo of (WARNING: DO NOT take photos of funeral Ghats--very
very uncool. It's not a tourist event, it's a funeral!) Bit if you've decided that may all be a little much, my
alternative India Must See suggestion would be Rishikesh, most easily arrived
to via hired car (with driver) or a taxi from Haridwar (you can get the train that far). It's also got the Ghats-factor
but much smaller (so in my mind it wasn't quite the same), though in some ways
it's just as intense.
The Ganges comes out from the mountains just here and so
it's flowing vigorously (enough for white-water rafting just outside of town)
and there's gurus on tap and Ashrams everywhere. It’s one of my favorite places
in India too, but I don't think it's an either/or it's definitely both-and.
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